The toy train operator can make good use of materials used by the electrical and electronics industries, but are not commonly available from toy train vendors.

This web page discusses supplies, vendors, web sites, and local sources for electrical supplies useful to the toy train operator. Click the bars in the following index for a specific topic, or scroll down to review the entire content.

The operation of toy train layouts can be enhanced by using isolated-rail track blocks to control trackside accessories and trains.

High-rail track rails can be insulated from metal ties with an insulating material known as "fish paper." Fish paper is broadly used for electrical insulation. It is also known as "Fibroid Fish Paper," "Natural Hard Fiber," and "Vulcanized Fiber." A .010 inch thickness seems to work well for isolating high-rail track rails.

Use a square a little smaller than 3/4" x 3/4" for O gauge. It needs to cover the metal tie and clamps, but not interfere with wheel flanges on the inside of the rail. Cut it into strips with a paper cutter, then use scissors to make the insulator.

See the Three-Rail Innovations' paper Operating Accessories with an Isolated-Rail Track Block .

Mouser carries a tightly-rolled (inconvenient) sheet 10" by 24" which can make about 400 rail insulators. It is Mouser part number 524-560, $4.05/sheet. It carries a label "GC Electronics, Fiberoid Fish Paper, .010 inch thick, #560.

McMaster-Carr has a variety of forms. Their product 8490K11 is a 12" x 12" sheet of .010 inch thickness for $2.36.

Almost invisible connections can be made to high-rail and Gargraves tubular track by inserting a 1/4 inch, non-insulated, male quick-disconnect terminal, from underneath, between rail metal sides.

See the Three-Rail Innovations' paper Making Invisible Electrical Connections to High-Rail Track .

Quick-disconnect terminals come in different wire sizes. For isolated-rails, 22 gauge wire works fine. For power connections, use 18 or 16 gauge.

For 22-18 gauge wire, Mouser's part is 517-2247, about $9/100. McMaster Carr's part number is 69525K66, $4/100.

For 16-14 gauge wire, Mouser's part is 517-1650, about $9/100. McMaster Carr's part number is 69525K68, $4/100.

Lighted accessories and structures add a lot of appeal to the toy train layout.

Click the bar for some toy train supplier and industry sources for light bulbs and holders.

There are a variety of products commonly used within the electrical and electronics industries that can be used to facilitate and organize wiring for toy train layouts.

Barrier Strips

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Barrier strips are most useful for organizing and interconnecting wires. They are constructed of a single or double row of machine screws with plastic "barriers" between them. Screws between two barriers are electrically connected so that one or more wires connected to one screw are bridged to one or more wires connected to the other screw. Screw-pairs along the strip (poles) are electrically isolated. Also called "Terminal Blocks."

Barrier strips come in a variety spacings (distance between screws), screw sizes, and positions (number of screws). Conventional screw spacings are: 3/8, 7/16, 9/16, and 11/16 inches. Barrier strips with 3/8 spacing have a current rating of 20 amperes per pole; quite adequate for toy train use.

#4, #5, and #6 screw sizes are useful to toy train operators. The #6 screw size is popular.

Barrier strips are commonly available with two to twelve poles.

Terminals for use on a barrier strip are selected based on screw size. The barrier strip's screws can be captive, that is, they don't come completely loose, so ring-tabs can not always be used.

Connections can be made with stripped wires or wires terminated with spade, or hook terminals. More than one terminal can be inserted under the same screw.

There are also numerous useful accessories for barrier strips: bridges for interconnecting adjacent positions, quick disconnect fixtures, tabs for connecting to circuit boards, labels, and covers.
A male quick-disconnect with a ring tab can be attached to a barrier strip to provide a single quick-disconnect terminal.
Double-ended quick-disconnect adapters are also available. Straight and angled versions can be stacked to allow multiple connections.

All the electronics suppliers listed in this web page sell barrier strips. Check their catalogs under the heading "terminal blocks" or search for "barrier strips." Look for "Terminal Blocks" at McMaster-Carr.

Terminals

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A "terminal" is anything that goes on the end of a wire. Toy train operators can use ring, locking ring, flag ring, spade, block spade, hook, and quick-disconnect terminals.

Terminals can be insulated or non-insulated. A wire is attached to a terminal's barrel by crimping. Insulated and non- insulated terminals require different crimping tools. Terminals are selected by wire-size ranges to suit the application.

Terminals are usually made of brass or copper with a plating. Tin plated terminals are easy to solder. Tin plating appears a dull, matte gray. Other plating materials appear like shiny chrome and may not be capable of being soldered (non- insulated).

Terminals are attached to a wire by crimping the terminal's barrel around the wire. Crimping is accomplished with a specialized tool. For toy train operators, a multipurpose hand tool that has crimping dies for either insulated or non-insulated terminals is a good choice.

Terminals are also selected for a "stud size," that is, the size of machine screw they will fit over. Toy train operators will find #4 to #10 useful.

• Ring terminals are retained by a screw or stud and nut. They won't slip off if the screw comes loose, but require the screw or nut to be removed to be installed. Good for transformer (#8) and accessory (#4) connections.
  
• The locking ring terminal incorporates a lock washer to reduce vibration loosening.
  
• Ring flag terminals are good for confined spaces.
  
• Spade lugs can be inserted under a screw or nut without completely removing it. Good for barrier strips.
  
• Block spade lugs closely fit between barriers to restrict movement and possible loosening of the retaining screw.
  
• Flanged spade lugs hold better if a screw becomes loose, but can only be used on the top of a stack of terminals.
  
• Flag spade terminals are good for confined spaces.
  
• Hook terminals can be installed without completely removing the screw, but won't easily pull off if the wire is snagged.
  
• Quick-disconnects connect two wires. There are different sizes; the 1/4 inch size is popular and fits a toy train operator's needs.
  
• Accessories allow multiple quick-disconnect terminals to be connected.
  
• The flag quick-disconnect is good for tight quarters.
  

Wall transformers can be a practical source of low-voltage AC power for the toy train operator. We suggest their use for powering our controllers and for supplying power for the detection of a train in an isolated-rail track block.

Wall transformers can also be used to power accessory lights. Most train accessory light bulbs consume about 0.25 amperes, but check voltage and current requirements and then purchase suitable transformers. Train accessories with solenoids require more current than a typical wall transformer will provide; use a train transformer for these.

Wall transformers connect to 110V AC house power and supply an isolated AC output at low voltages: we are interested in transformers supplying 9 to 18 volts (VAC) and 0.5 amperes or more.

Output specifications may be in terms of "ma" (milliamperes). Divide "ma" by a thousand to get amperes. For example, 1,500ma is 1.5 amperes. The term "VA" (Volt Amperes) may also be used. Volt-Amperes is the product of the output voltage and the current rating. Divide "VA" by the output voltage to get the output current in amperes. For example, a 16.1 volt, 30VA transformer supplies 1.86 amperes.

There are also direct current (DC, VDC, REG, or AC-to-DC) power supplies available in similar housings: (these are not of interest). Make sure the description uses the terms AC-to-AC, "alternating current" or the term "VAC" appears in the output specification. Note that the input (wall) power is AC (alternating current) for transformers producing an AC or DC output.

Some wall transformers may be designated as "British" "EURO," or "Foreign." These have different wall plugs and won't work on U.S. house power.

Wall transformers are available in different forms; any will serve.

Also called a "table top" style transformer. An AC input plug and cord connect to the transformer. Another cord serves for the low voltage output. This form is better for use with power strips; all available outlets can be used.
The AC input plug is attached to the transformer housing. A cord is used for output power.
The AC input plug is attached to the transformer housing. Screws on the housing allow wires to be attached for the output.

Most wall transformers with output cords have a plug of some sort on the end. Either incorporate a mating plug or cut off the plug and strip the wire ends.

A power strip is a convenient way to power a number of wall transformers. Or, to save running an excess of wires, wall transformers can also be located wherever needed on the layout.

Wall transformers have an internal fuse on the output. This fuse is not easy to replace: some transformer housings cannot even be opened. The fuse will be blown if the transformer is overloaded or even if the outputs are momentarily shorted while making connections with the power on. Make sure of connections before turning the transformer on: wall transformers are not as forgiving as train transformers.

The full-service suppliers listed offer wall transformers. All Electronics and Jameco have broad offerings of surplus wall transformers at good prices.

All Electronics lists "Wall Transformers" in its catalog index on the first web page, then select "A.C. Wall."

At Jameco, select "Components," "Power Equipment," "AC Wall Transformers." Note that even though an "AC" transformer category is selected, not all listed items may apply; the category lists aren't always perfect.

We regularly purchase from all the vendors listed. They all have 24-hour online ordering, welcome new customers, and don't object too strongly to small orders. All have credit card ordering and ship quickly.

On-line catalogs from full-line suppliers have detailed specifications, pictures, and manufacturer references for most parts. You can be sure of what you are getting.

All have a part number search. Enter the part numbers cited on this web page to order the part. They also have sophisticated part name/category searches.

Some suggestions.

Watch out for an effective order minimum if you are planning a small purchase. Sometimes the order minimum is disguised as a "handling charge" that is waived if your order exceeds a certain amount. Ordering everything from one vendor can be more cost effective, even if it means paying a little more for some parts.

Shipping rates, such as from UPS, are usually based on a base charge plus so much additional by weight. The base charge can mean shipping charges for a really small order are quite high. For small orders, USPS First Class can be a far better deal (if offered as a shipping alternative).

Avoid ordering parts that come up as "Back Ordered." Not only can it take a long time to get all of your order, but shipping charges can get out of hand: often, each back-ordered item is shipped separately. Some vendors charge only what it would cost to ship the whole order at once, but others charge actual shipping costs.

Avoid any special shipping instructions. These vendors have very efficient fulfillment operations and asking for something special really slows down the process. Leave the "Shipping Instructions" window blank if you are in a hurry.

All Electronics Corporation supplies new, surplus, and used electronic parts and devices to the hobbyist. Targeted to small quantity needs.

Especially good for small motors and mechanical assemblies, gears, switches, wall transformers, LEDs, and all sorts of fascinating things essential to the tinkerer.

Always something on sale or closeout for good prices.

Place an order and you will get catalogs forever.

Many parts are from surplus sources and are not available forever. If you see something you like, better buy it.

Not all parts have spec sheets, but they list all available spec sheets in a fascinating list. For example, see "Using Light Emitting Diodes."

Easy to deal with.

Click the "Info" link at the top of the home page for useful information.

Phone ordering at (888) 826-5432.

$6.00 minimum shipping/handling charge.

Jameco Electronics is a surplus electronics supplier that also represents some manufacturers. Around 6,000 products.

Good selection of motors, stepper motors, gear head motors, solenoids, and mechanical parts. Good for LEDs, including LED Clusters. Lots of older PC computer devices, processors, and chips. Nice selection of common electronic parts. Robotic kits and useful parts. Lots of hobbyist kits. Offers a variety of electronic component assortments.

Phone ordering at (800) 831-4242

Nice catalog. Lots of pictures.

McMaster-Carr is an "Industrial Supplier." Their products are targeted to businesses, manufacturing plants, service companies, etc.

Great supplier. Good for hardware, wire, electrical supplies, tools, etc. 400,000 products. Everything we have purchased has been top quality.

The web site is great for finding what you want, even if you don't know exactly what it is. McMaster-Carr devotes page space to explaining about products so an informed choice can be made.

For parts mentioned in this page, look in the heading "Lighting and Electrical," clicking on "Terminals" or searching for "Terminal Blocks."

Click "About Us" in the top bar, then "Ordering" in the left frame for some useful ordering information.

Mouser Electronics is a full-line supplier to the electronics industry. Very broad line card.

Good for all kinds of electrical/electronics stuff. Especially good for electro-mechanical components: terminals, terminal blocks, switches, connectors, wire, wiring aides, transformers, relays, and top quality tools.

Easy to deal with.

Phone ordering: (800) 346-6873, but you need a catalog.

Ask for their free catalog, especially with your first order. It is great for finding those things you didn't know you needed.

Radio Shack has some components that can be useful to the toy train operator. Prices are, typically, high. They do have, however, a large number of local stores.

Local stores don't always maintain a stock level on small parts. Try using the web site to see what is available and get a part number, then calling your local store to check stock.

A local source for wiring aides and electronics parts can be useful. A place where you can go and look at what's available. A store that has been around since the 40's or so and still has some old materials available is great for finding electrical supplies for repairing trains.

Look under phone directory headings like Electronic Equipment & Supplies.